Cyrus H. Wheelock Company (1853) Pg 4
first approach is indicated by the rising of a small, dark cloud on the horizon, which
dually increases, and spreads with considerable rapidity over the plain. The thunder
is heard booming along like the sounds of a large park of artillery, with a deep
richness of tone that cannot be conceived in the narrow and confined streets of the
tow os and cities ol~ England. These sounds seldom cease until the storm is over. Then
comes the brilliant silvery flash of the lightning, which illumines the darkness of
midnight with a light so pure that it would be possible to pick up a pin from the prairie
ground, if one were there. Ofttimes have 1 experienced considerable pleasure in
watching this awfully grand phenomenon of nature, as it lighted up my waggon,
during the silent hours of the night; the shrill voice of the guard as he called the hour
and "all's right," together with the pealing thunder, every now and again breaking the
monotony of the hours of slumber. The rain fell in torrents, and hail came down upon
our canvass as though the "boys" above were pelting us with alabaster marbles; but
the canvass withstood the battery in first-rate style. In all tempestuous storms which
we passed through, I never observed any fear displayed by the Mormons; but every
man was at his post, either at midnight or in the day time, - In thunder, lightning, or in
rain.
Previous to our arrival at Fort Laramie, we passed many places that were
colonized by prairie dogs. These cunning little animals partake somewhat of the rabbit
species, and burrow under ground, differing in their formation and in some of their
habits. The nose and mouth are like the rabbit; the ears are short, and appear as though
they had been cut. The other portion of the body is much like that of the dog, with the
exception of the tail, which, I believe, is short and bushy. They generally occupy a
large piece of sandy land; raise mounds by scratching a hole to burrow in, leaving the
entrance at the top; and when anything disturbs them, there is one always on the
watch, who raises the alarm by a sudden howl, and down they all go. It requires a
smart marksman to shoot one, they are so exceedingly quick. At night, the howling of
the prairie dogs and of the wolves around our camp was sometimes very great; and
you might imagine them close upon your heels, so fierce and loud did they howl. If a
horse or an ox fell or "gave out" from fatigue, the wolves were soon upon the track
seeming out their prey, and by the light of the morning the bones of the animal were
to be seen pretty well cleared of the flesh. These ferocious animals were very
numerous, and at times very bold, attacking beasts in or near the camp at midnight
to Hdrt * guard keeping a 00k Ut; they invariably quit on the appearance of
Many rivers lay in our path, which we had to cross; some by ferry-boat others
we ran our teams through without stopping. Sometimes it was rather difficult to cross
Cyrus H. Wheelock Company (1853) pg 5.
these streams by ferry boat, with heavily-laden waggons, owing to the sand-banks,
snags, &c.; but these things appeared to be little in the way of the Mormons, for us
soon as the difficulty presented itself, a dozen men were immediately at hand with
spades, shovels, and pickaxes, to remove any obstacle that might be likely to retard
our progress. In fact, a company of pioneers was formed - a man out of every twelve
being required every morning. This party had a captain over them, and he called them
out, and went ahead of the camp; and on perceiving any bad or difficult places, they
endeavoured to smooth the path for the coming train, reducing, where possible,
sudden descents and steep inclines, filling up sloughs and mud holes with prairie grass
and brushwood, covering all with soil, thus giving a firmer footing for the cattle;
forming bridges and repairing those that were broken down or carried away by the
floods. In this manner the train met with little or no delay until they camped in the
evening.
I must now hasten to give you a slight sketch of our journey from Fort
Laramie, as we had up to this time been engaged in crossing rivers and plains, but
now we were about to experience a change, - the Black Hills lay before us as we
approached the fort - these we had to cross previously to our arrival at the Valley of
the Great Salt Lake.
We reached Fort Laramie on the 24th August, and pitched camp on the north side of
the river Platte - the same side on which we had been travelling. Here the company
set about making repairs; refixing anything that was out of order, and tightening the
tires on the wagon wheels, as we were about to experience a change in the character
of the roads - from sand and mud to rocky mountains. Fort Laramie is but a small
village, consisting of a store, an hotel, and some few houses. The inhabitants chiefly
depend upon trading with the emigrants and Indians, and speculating with cattle.
There is a mail station here also, and a company of the United States army to defend
the rights of all travelers.
It was at Fort Laramie that we received a visit from the tribe of Indians called
Sioux. These are a more noble looking race than the Pawnees, being taller and more
athletic, with intelligent and rather handsome features. They went through the
smoking ceremony with the chief of our company, and he made them some presents,
one of whom received an old black dress coat, a hat, and a pair of pants; the coat he
soon put on, and 'cut a dash" through the camp with the new garb, being a man
upwards of 6 feet well proportioned and noble features. The pants he could not get on,
and said they were "no good," as he could not walk or run in them. The female portion
of this tribe were of a beautiful appearance, though having a dark skin; they partake
somewhat of the Spanish features, being brunette, with dark bright eyes. Two of theseCyrus H. Wheelock Company (1853) Pg 6
. to camp one morning, just as we were bout to move, riding upon ponies, sitting
ss-legged, and wished to trade their moccasins for bread, or trinkets, or jewels, but
when we offered anything they could make no use of, they would smile, and truly
then smiles were exquisite, enough to make an Englishman forget where he was.
Mam of this tribe followed us some distance, and seemed much attracted by a funeral
ceremon) that took place at Fort Laramie, which was the burial of one of the aged
lathers of the company, who had come out from Ashton-under Lyne, near your city,
with his family, and who was very desirous of seeing the valley in the far west.
But I am afraid I shall lengthen out too much, if I enumerate all the little
circumstances that occurred on this journey. We now had crossed the Platte river, and
w ere running on the south side of it, leaving it to the right for a short time, and again
coming to it. The hills that skirted our path on our left were covered with the dark
foliage of the fir-tree, and, in the distance, appeared perfectly black. As the train
advanced (which was a slow motion) we had ample opportunity of witnessing the
varied mountainous scenery that now presented itself on every side. We would
occasionally find ourselves running along a high ridge, from which we had an
extensive view of immense basins or valleys, extending for miles every way,
surrounded by lofty and rugged mountains, next we would have to lock our wagon
wheels, as we were descending a steep declivity into one of these beautiful valleys,
and it would seem to the inexperienced traveler that we had got into a place from
which there was no escape, as to all appearance we were locked in by impassable
rocks of stupendous magnitude. But onward we pressed, until we came to a steep
ascent, where it would require the doubling of teams to rush the wagons up to the
next lofty ridge, and which again gave us a view of the apparently endless nature of
our journey. On this part of our journey the company frequently refreshed themselves
by the many springs of clear water that rushed from the foot of the mountains.
On the 29th of August we started on our journey as usual, but the day proved a
rather eventful one. We had gone a short distance previously to camping for dinner,
and for that purpose we turned a little out of our path, and proceeded towards the river
Platte, where there was a deal of dry bunch grass, which is good feed for cattle. We
halted, the cattle were unhitched from the wagons, and driven in a herd to the water.
Orders had been given by the captain that no fires should be lighted, as, from the
dryness of the grass, it was dangerous to do so. Two or three of the company did not
hear the order, and without thought lighted fires. The inflammable nature of the prairie
grass caused the flames to spread with considerable rapidity, being also aided by the
husk wind that was blowing. It appeared a critical moment. The flames, in some
instances, reached the tops of the wagons, and set the canvas on fire. Horror was Cyrus H. Wheelock Company (1853) pg. i
depicted on many countenances, and it seemed as though the whole company would
be destroyed. Every exertion was made to put out the flames, men pulling off their
coats, and women their shawls, to batter out the fire, but it was all to no purpose. The
fury of the fiery element increased, and roared like thunder as it rolled along the
ground, the heat being so great that it singed the men as they attempted to move the
wagons to windward.
The captain, however, gave orders for the oxen to be brought up, and hitched
in. A movement to an adjacent hill was commenced, and as soon as we got there out
of danger, we again halted, and sat down on the grass to dine, watching the progress
of the fire, which had by this time well-night reached the river, and there was
presented to our view a large blackened surface - the effects of the destructive
element.
Having recovered from the fright we had received from witnessing the prairie
on fire, we again proceeded on our way over the Rocky Mountains; our course
continuing much the same as previously described - over rocky and smooth ground,
continuing to rise in altitude as we advanced, the highest elevation we attained being
about 7,000 feet above the level of the sea.
Near to Independence Rock (an immense round rock, with a flat top on
Sweetwater river, 300 miles from Great Salt Lake city, carved, and cut, and painted
with all kinds of names of parties emigrating to and from California and Salt Lake) -
near to this rock there is a fort and mail station, called Chambault Fort, and it is also a
trading-post. Here also is a curiosity - the waters of the Sweetwater rush through,
between two perpendicular rocks of considerable loftiness, and this is called Devil's
Gate.
At Fort Bridger (113 miles from the city) there is also a trading-post. From this
point to the city, the mountains take a great elevation - the highest being about 7,000
feet above the sea. The approach to the city is through canyons of eight or ten miles in
length, being much cut up by creeks, and lined on either side by perpendicular rocks -
a very dangerous passage for an army in a hostile country.
At the mouth of the Emigration canyon, through which we passed, we were
five miles from the city, and as we approached it, the sun was just skirting the horizon
in the west, on the 6th day of October, 1853.
In my next letter, I will give you a full description of the city, and other
important particulars connected with the Mormon population in the Rocky Mountains.
J.G.C.
Chambers, John G., to Editor, 14 May 1854 Manchester Examiner, 2 Sep. 1854.
